Udaipur: 24 Years Later

We first came to Udaipur 24 years ago and haven’t returned until now. On our first visit, when we only came to India for three weeks and were still working, we stayed in a Heritage haveli on the edge of the lake in the honeymoon suite for a mere $25. Today, we’re still paying $25 for a room that’s definitely one of our better ones in India, four large breezy windows with a lake view. But it’s nowhere near the caliber of the previous suite and located on the ‘other side’ of the lake.


Two small bridges cross the narrow channel of water connecting the two sides of town – an old stone one for traffic, and a newer footbridge.  

Memories of past journeys come to mind.  Walking across the footbridge, I’m reminded of the bridges crossing the Miljacka river in Sarajevo.

Galleries selling Indian miniatures and the high-end restaurants on  the lake’s edge, could be Carmel( if you squint).

And the narrow lanes and temple music below our window brings up images of Varanasi. 

With its old havelis, palaces, marble temples and seven man-made lakes, the city clings to its historical elegance.

The floating palace in the middle of Lake Pichola is familiar to westerners from the 1983 James Bond movie, Octopussy.

City Palace, built over 400 years, is  a monumental complex of 11 palaces, courtyards and gardens with sweeping views of the lake.

The Mewar dynasty, famous for keeping the Mogul rulers at bay, lived here until 1955. A few years later it was opened as a privately-run museum. 

When the sun or the moon rises over the lake, it could be a scene from an Indian miniature (minus all the flashing colored lights that India loves).

Within a temple complex we met a young man painting miniatures. He had first learned the skill from his uncle and then for eight years worked in a call center. But he was not satisfied and eventually returned to miniature painting. He earns very little and worries that it will be hard to support a family when married.  But for now he’s happy painting under the guidance of his teacher. 

During the daytime, the horrendous traffic clogs the narrow lanes with rickshaws and motorcycles not sparing their horns. The shopkeepers don’t like the noise either, but what are their options? At lunch I told Gerard how fortunate we were to have traveled before everybody in the world had a motorbike. In 1972, we spent three months in a walled town in southern Morocco. The only road entered through a gate to a small square. From there, everything went in and out via donkey. We took the peace and quiet for granted.

8 thoughts on “Udaipur: 24 Years Later

  1. Hi Gerard and Bobbie

    I was in Udaipur about 5 years ago and also 35 years ago
    In the 80s the hotel in the lake was much smaller .I arrived with a girlfriend in the morning and we had breakfast at the hotel for about £2 each

    More recently I might have stayed at the same hotel as you now near the bridge .Does it have a big terrace with magnificent views ?

    I think the main thing that puts me off about India is the noise .Bring back the bicycle .

    It seems whenever you travel east I’m laid up .A few years back I broke my arm and this year I was hospitalised with pneumonia ; both very unpleasant experiences .

    Still I’m much better now .

    Good to read about your exploits

    Michael

    Sent from my iPhone

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    • bad luck about the pneumonia. Glad you’ve recovered. We’re ending our trip now. It’s been very good but our overriding complaint is pollution and noise. I agree with you about the bicycle. You barely see them here anymore. Everybody seems to be able to afford a motorbike. Our next trip is to England. Maybe we’ll see you there. We may not move far from London this time. As for India again who knows…stay well. All the best, Gloria.

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  2. Wonderful photos and I have enjoyed reading about your travels.

    We are having some very warm weather and the lowest snowfall in many years.

    Happy trails, (-:

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  3. Gorgeous photos. We went there in 1990 and are yet to return. Our most treasured memory of Udipur is a fireworks show that went one for hours but during the day so we just heard the noises but no sparkles. All the travellers sitting on our rooftop thought it was so funny. Enjoy. Again Bobby, you look beautiful.

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  4. Thanks for the travelogue. Glad that you are able to appreciate the things about the area that still are intact. Great photos!! End of FEB and it is almost 60 degrees today!

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  5. I never got to see Udaipur sadly. I don’t remember why I skipped it in 1985 as I was in Pushkar and Jaipur but I’m disappointed as it has obviously changed like everything else in India. But still remains beautiful.

    Sent from my phone

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  6. dears Bobby and Gerard 💕✌🏽🌟🌟

    your photos are amazing ! You have found a very beautiful place again. The sunshine ☀️ and the views are so lovely. 🥰 thank you for sharing your beautiful story. 🙏🏾

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